I'm strictly speaking a 36, but I have a Vaugan in 34 and it fits fine after washing-Incidentally while I did not measure before and after a 40 degree wash, the shrinkage was minimal.
02-28-2018, 12:14 AM (This post was last modified: 02-28-2018, 12:14 AM by willyto.)
(02-28-2018, 12:01 AM)metatron Wrote: I'm strictly speaking a 36, but I have a Vaugan in 34 and it fits fine after washing-Incidentally while I did not measure before and after a 40 degree wash, the shrinkage was minimal.
In my experience SJC trousers tend to fit on the big side for the size stamped so if between sizes I always order down.
the size 34 as described on the website are spot on, with a 35" waist and a nice 10" hem. My worry was about the degree of shrinkage, the trousers being denim. Anyway, I've now had a PM from the website and SJC suggests that even a 40 wash will shrink them an inch in the waist to 34. Which means the leg will narrrow as well, I'm guessing to around 9 3/4" at the hem.
The problem for me with sizing up to the 36 is that I'm actually quite small and skinny - 5ft 7", 10 1/2 stone, 38 chest. I just have a waist that is bigger than it should be. It seems my body shape has changed with age: ten years ago I was exactly the same weight but had a 33 waist. It seems that any spare fat (and I honestly don't have much!) has landed on my middle This means that when I wear 36" trousers they tend to be too loose in the seat, and even if I use the cinch on these I expect I'll have a sticking out baggy bum.
Basically I seem to have two choices
a) buy the size 34 (measured 35) and cold wash them with bio powder. If they do end up as 34 waist, I do have a waistband stretcher which I use on my size 34 pants, though it would be nice to avoid the hassle, and i don't like the idea of a hem smaller than 10"!
b) buy the size 36" (measured 37) and give them several hot washes in the hope they'll shrink even more than an inch, but no more than 10" at the hem. Or take them in at the waist and seat, a job I'm getting quite good at with vintage pants, but would rather avoid with new trousers
Well one thing not mentioned is the split waistband that allows you to let them out up to 2". Perhaps this can give you the best of both worlds? Also the trouser hem width wont shrink. Cotton is funny it shrinks where it is not sewn like the leg length.
Shrinkage is always more in length than in width, measured in percentage. On top of that, since a finished trouser is longer than it is wide, a 5% shrinkage means a lot more in absolute numbers for the length than it does for the width.
02-28-2018, 05:59 PM (This post was last modified: 02-28-2018, 06:02 PM by willyto.)
(02-28-2018, 03:00 PM)Spritle Wrote: What size do you usually take in pants? 34 or 36?
If you are a 34 then go 34 and soak them cold.
I went up which gives room at the waist, but I'm having mine taken in at the seat and thighs.
When I was a 34W I bought the three cotton summer trousers in 34 and they were just huge. Literally huge even with braces. I sized down to a 32W and they fit fine in the waist but they had a lot of room in the seat and thighs even with the side adjusters fully closed. Being now a 33W they still have lots of room in the seat which eventually I will have to take in when summer arrives unless I want to look like a clown.
I brought up the baggy seat back then but everyone seemed to call it accurate fit and proper 30s fit so I kept quiet about it but it seems I'm not the only one who sees that.
People were so worried about the trousers being so slim but your picture shows no slim trousers. Are the trousers at your natural waist over the bellybutton?
My feeling is that the shrinkage you all expext in widht will not happen, period. Cotton shrinks in lenght most of the time and unless you buy raw denim shrink to fit the waist will barely be affected. I know because even with the salt and pepper the waist of my narrow trousers or the hem wasn't affected. Specially if you iron the trousers after drying them naturally.
The new ones are below the belly button for me and also in the pic above. It's OK and the width in the knees is also there. I still think the big Bs were perfect. Just a matter of taste and body build perhaps.
I think tried-and-true cuts in various fabrics are a good idea. Sure, if they need a tweak here or there, but it is a great way to build a good returning client base. Maybe not as exciting from a design perspective though.