[Sean Longden]

With regard to the issue of the cuff buttons, the style is pretty much the same as on vintage British linen jackets that i have. It doesn't really bother me.

[Guillermo]

With regard to the issue of the cuff buttons, the style is pretty much the same as on vintage British linen jackets that i have. It doesn't really bother me.

Same here and I actually commented on the detail when I tried them on. I actually prefer them this way because they aren't as dressy as that fake surgeon cuff with the overlapping fabric.

Makes for a more relaxed suit in my opinion and it's easier to alter too.

Most of us have to alter the sleeve lenght so button placement is something that doesn't worry much to be fair, one can customize it their prefered way.

Regarding the brace button placement it is true that the factories often get it wrong but I think it has to do with modern tailoring. The size of the buttons is a bit big though and one button is missing yes. This needs to be addressed, they confuse the button fly tab button with the brace button so they don't add a second one on the left side, that's a mistake.

I always put my brace buttons outside anyway so not sure if I will just replace them with others since one is missing or replace the inside tab button but the placement again doesn't worry me because I remove them to put them outside. The size is the same as the button fly top button and the jacket buttons which might be a bit big.

[Philipp]

I guess it depends on how much one likes "tinkering" with one's clothes in general, I tend to be of the "wear them out of the box" school.


Changing the braces buttons to outside the waistbandis is something worth thinking about, I found that the dye on the leather ends on some cheaper braces sometimes discolours my shirts.

[samtemporary]

With regard to the issue of the cuff buttons, the style is pretty much the same as on vintage British linen jackets that i have. It doesn't really bother me.

I always put my brace buttons outside anyway so not sure if I will just replace them with others since one is missing or replace the inside tab button but the placement again doesn't worry me because I remove them to put them outside. The size is the same as the button fly top button and the jacket buttons which might be a bit big.

Darcy has their trousers with the brace buttons on the outside, and I've always like that look, but only if the rear has a decently high tail. I have about a half dozen or more Darcy trousers (working man's suits) and they tend to be my go-to suit when traveling.

I wish Simon would consider something similar - correcting the little details that annoy us with Darcy's working man clothes, like the tight arms, shorter jacket length, shorter waistcoat length (or perhaps that's my larger middle girth - just saying) for the "go-to" travel suit crowd.

[Nik]

Most of us have to alter the sleeve lenght so button placement is something that doesn't worry much to be fair, one can customize it their prefered way.

Regarding the brace button placement it is true that the factories often get it wrong but I think it has to do with modern tailoring.

This, and this.

The kissing buttons thing mentioned earlier ("slight overlap") would be a contemporary feature that really has no place in a vintage style suit although some bespoke customers back then may have used it as well. Still, the slightly wider spacing (as opposed to American style nearly-touching) is normal for many vintage tailoring schools including the British and German.

On contemporary tailored trousers, the braces are placed a bit different due to the lower rise. It's basically an attempt to retain the functionality of braces which is, strictly speaking, nearly lost when used on low rise trousers.

[SJC]

Noted, thanks fellas, I write this sitting next to a 30 year experienced Senior Garment Technologist who is the Clint Eastwood of factory fit and finish, shit is a about to get real serious.  Keep up the comments, wants and needs and I'll ensure it gets fed through to the right people.

[Philipp]

Most of us have to alter the sleeve lenght so button placement is something that doesn't worry much to be fair, one can customize it their prefered way.

Regarding the brace button placement it is true that the factories often get it wrong but I think it has to do with modern tailoring.

This, and this.

The kissing buttons thing mentioned earlier ("slight overlap") would be a contemporary feature that really has no place in a vintage style suit although some bespoke customers back then may have used it as well. Still, the slightly wider spacing (as opposed to American style nearly-touching) is normal for many vintage tailoring schools including the British and German.

On contemporary tailored trousers, the braces are placed a bit different due to the lower rise. It's basically an attempt to retain the functionality of braces which is, strictly speaking, nearly lost when used on low rise trousers.

Nik - I'm learning something here: So you're saying that me being bothered by the buttons being spaced is because I am used to seeing them overlap on more contemporary jackets. That would explain a lot.

[Nik]

Nik - I'm learning something here: So you're saying that me being bothered by the buttons being spaced is because I am used to seeing them overlap on more contemporary jackets. That would explain a lot.

That's it, in a nutshell. The kissing buttons, stacked buttons and everything in between are a feature that somehow went mainstream after having been established as a "quality" feature.

---

Noted, thanks fellas, I write this sitting next to a 30 year experienced Senior Garment Technologist who is the Clint Eastwood of factory fit and finish, shit is a about to get real serious.  Keep up the comments, wants and needs and I'll ensure it gets fed through to the right people.

@SJC since you mentioned your new garment tech connection:

The button cuffs on the cotton 33 jacket seem to be in need of fixing. The orientation of button cuffs is always the same, check against originals. They don't point towards the inside (the torso) when the arms are hanging loose but outward at a specific angle. A cuff that points inward simply feels and looks wrong when worn.

This also applies to some of the previous iterations of SJC tailored jackets (not the 2019 ones, as far as I've seen).
The button cuffs of casual jackets basically have the same orientation as the cuffs of tailored jackets. When you cross your arms wearing a tailored jacket, the buttons (and, in case of a true cuff with that fabric fold) always end up at the lower edge of the visible cuff in front of you - they don't get buried by your arms. So it's not just convention, it's a convenience.

Random examples to help you visualise what I'm referring to: where cuffs end up when in motion.







And position one, this:



... versus this:

[Nik]

Simon in Beirut wearing the 30s linen suit trousers, Elba linen shirt, open weave polo, and plimsoles.

[Edward2.0]

Shape of those trousers is perfect. I need them in a hefty drill cotton and All The Colours forf day to day office wear!

[Bygonedaze]

here's a suggestion for these suits, waistcoats, I would buy one to go with the jacket and trousers!

[Guillermo]

I suspect that Simon made the decission based on the sales of the previous waistcoat.

[SJC]

Summer suits and waistcoats, i was always left with the waistcoats to sell later.  I will try again with another style of course but this year things were very successful without them.

[Sean Longden]

I know there is a certain vintage 'cachet' about having a waistcoat with your summer suit (see all the excitement when a full Palm Beach cloth suit comes up for sale), but I just don't understand the point in wearing a lightweight suit because of the weather and then adding an extra layer which will made you warmer.

[Nik]

Noted, thanks fellas, I write this sitting next to a 30 year experienced Senior Garment Technologist who is the Clint Eastwood of factory fit and finish, shit is a about to get real serious.  Keep up the comments, wants and needs and I'll ensure it gets fed through to the right people.

Just noticed something I missed before because I hadn't seen flat pics of the linen suit jacket until now:
Please make sure the hem has the standard amount of drop from back to front. The back isn't supposed to be as long as the front. If it does it'll get in the way when sitting down and it looks unbalanced when viewed in profile.
Not sure if this happened on samples only, still. "If you don't know now you know ."